Bathrooms get more decisions per square foot than any other room. Behind the finishes are decisions about waterproofing, ventilation, plumbing supply, drainage, and electrical — most of which are buried by the time you see anything pretty. This checklist orders those decisions roughly in the sequence they have to be made.
Moisture control
The defining failure mode of a bathroom remodel is moisture intrusion behind the finishes. Phoenix's dry climate hides it longer than humid climates do, but the eventual failure is the same.
Three layers of moisture defense, in order:
- Waterproofing membrane in the shower — sheet or liquid-applied, lapped properly at corners.
- Slope to the drain — 1/4" per foot, planned in the framing, not made up at the finish.
- Sealants and grouts at the visible surface — the last line of defense, not the only one.
If your contractor's discussion of waterproofing is "we'll seal it well," that is not waterproofing planning. Real waterproofing planning specifies a system (Schluter, Wedi, Laticrete, etc.), names the assembly, and details corner and curb transitions.
Ventilation
Exhaust fans matter for two reasons: removing humidity, and removing combustion gases from gas appliances if any are in the room.
Specify:
- CFM sized to the room — 50 CFM minimum for a half bath, 80–100+ CFM for a primary.
- Ducting that runs to outside — not into the attic.
- A humidistat or timer so the fan runs after the shower stops.
Plumbing and supply
Decide while walls are open:
- Re-pipe supply lines if existing is copper of questionable age or polybutylene.
- Drains for new fixture locations.
- Shut-offs at every fixture, accessible.
- Recirculating hot-water loop, if you're tired of waiting for hot at distant fixtures.
Tile and waterproofing
The waterproofing system dictates the tile substrate. The substrate dictates how the tile is set. The tile pattern dictates layout decisions (centerlines, transitions, niches) made before the first tile goes on the wall.
Plan:
- Tile size and pattern — large-format reduces grout joints; small mosaics increase them.
- Niche locations and dimensions — set on the centerline of a tile course, not floating.
- Grout color — light shows soap residue; dark shows efflorescence.
- Transitions to other floor materials.
Fixtures and finishes
Decide finish family early — chrome, brushed nickel, polished nickel, matte black, brushed brass — and stick with it across the room. Mixed-metal looks can work but require deliberate choices, not accidents.
- Shower valves: trim, function, and the rough-in valve are three separate purchase decisions.
- Toilets: comfort height, dual-flush, soft-close, skirted vs. exposed trapway.
- Vanities: built-in vs. furniture; single vs. double basin; integrated counter vs. separate top.
Storage and vanities
Vanity drawer storage is more useful than door-and-shelf storage in most cases. Plan inserts: cosmetic dividers, hair-tool drawers with internal outlets, hidden hampers.
Medicine cabinets vs. wall-mount mirrors: medicine cabinets carry more storage but limit lighting options.
Accessibility and aging-in-place
If this remodel is meant to last decades, decide now about:
- Curbless shower — requires slope and drainage planned in the framing.
- Blocking in the walls for grab bars (even if not installing today).
- 36"+ door clearances.
- Comfort-height toilets and ADA-grade fixtures.
Timeline
A primary bathroom remodel runs six to ten weeks of construction once selections are complete. Add three to six weeks of pre-construction for design and selections, and lead time for any special-order tile or vanities (often six to ten weeks).
Planning a bathroom remodel and want a second opinion on the waterproofing approach? Book a consultation.